Learning the Ropes  

by John P. DeGrazio 

My legs are really burning. I don’t remember these cables being so hard the last time. That’s because this IS harder. I didn’t realize this cable would be so heavy. At least we’re both sharing the load. Hey, don’t sit there! I’m barely holding on.

“Sorry” Jacob apologized as he sat in the only crack in the granite while slightly nudging me backward for a moment. “I didn’t realize there wasn’t any room.” Jacob inched to his right to make a spot for me to slide into the crack with him. “I really needed to stop for a moment” he politely added. He was so polite that it was impossible to get mad at him, even for a second. “It’s alright” I assured him as the initial anxiety eroded. Here we were about halfway up the cables on an already spectacular morning! We continued up the cables and made our way to the dome that was still partially covered in snow. “So this is what it’s like without any people” I bemused and was immediately hooked on this new solitary experience. It was only my second time to the top, but I realized the stark contradiction to the festival atmosphere of the summit on a summer afternoon. The year was 2006, long before the park service decided to limit the amount of hikers allowed to pursue the cable route from the Sub Dome with the permit system lottery. This was a true wilderness experience, and I could hardly contain myself as I lept from rock to rock snapping photos like the tourist I was.

In 2006 I founded YExplore, an adventure company offering guided photography tours in Yosemite National Park. Our concept was simple. We would offer photography classes in Yosemite Valley that were designed and instructed by local professional photographers. We hired Walter Flint who became our lead photographer and a great mentor for me as I learned the lay of the land. A funny thing happened when we received our very first booking though. The client asked if we knew of a company who could lead his family on a hiking tour after the conclusion of his photo field session. Catherine excitedly called me on that day and repeated the question. My response was to confidently tell him we do. “We do?” she gasped. “We do now!” was my retort.

Jacob Smith answered our first and only ad we placed in search of local guides for our newly developed Yosemite family tours. He was a bright young entrepreneur with an outgoing personality and an extensive knowledge of camping in Yosemite. He was perfect. He was hired. Actually, it was not until his second interview that I hired him. For his follow up interview, I had Jacob lead me (and another friend, we’ll call him D) on a hike to the top of the Upper Yosemite Fall. I will save sharing that tale for another time but would be remiss if I didn’t at least mention it will always be referred to as D-Day. In spite of many theatrics from our friend D, Jacob decided to take the job, and we formed an early bond as we explored many trails in Yosemite that spring and summer. I needed to learn as much as possible, and we weren’t actually blowing away our competition for clients that year. We proudly led 9 total tours that season so there was plenty of time for exploration.

In mid May Jacob and I decided to embark on an overnight scouting trip of the Half Dome trail. This would be our last preseason tune up before we would begin leading tours. Half Dome was not yet on our list of offerings, but I had been yearning to return to its summit since the move. It was only a two day outing, but I was excited because it was my first official wilderness backpack in Yosemite National Park. In case you’re wondering, we moved to Yosemite in 2005 with a 3 month old daughter so most of my forays into the wild were of the one day variety. Sure, we covered a lot of ground on some of those uber hikes, but now was my first chance to sleep under the stars in a place I was growing to love exponentially more with every adventure. Jacob was great. He helped me prepare by sharing a packing list with everything I needed and even drove us. We stopped to pick up our permits in the Valley and set our sights for the John Muir Trail.

We decided to forego Little Yosemite Valley after spending some time atop Nevada Fall. Jacob didn’t want my first wilderness camping experience to be in a designated campsite. We found a previously impacted site as we were taught in the Leave No Trace trainers class we attended together and set up camp. Jacob was efficient and thorough as he built a fire in the established fire ring. He made sure to only collect branches from fallen trees that were no thicker than his wrist. I was learning so much from Jacob and he really helped me develop a proper set of ethics for being in the wilderness. “If it’s a place you love and are passionate about, it’s easy to respect and protect the areas where you camp.” I remember him sharing.

We woke early the next morning, ate our oatmeal, and were on our way up the trail. It was a short walk of about 2 miles, but it was chilly so the movement helped. By the time we reached Sub Dome, the sun had warmed us quite a bit. Once we managed the cables, we explored every inch of Half Dome making new tracks over much of the snow covered hump while photographing several waterfalls from vantage points we never knew existed. I snapped images of Snow Creek, Illilouette, Staircase, and Yosemite Falls from the summit, and there was a beautiful rainbow on Yosemite Falls. Although I didn’t catch Half Dome fever on this trip, it would come later, I was truly amazed by the ability to see all these waterfalls from up high. It definitely piqued my interest in exploring more of Yosemite’s backcountry.

Satisfied with our mission, we finally decided to begin our long descent to the Valley. It was mostly uneventful, you know. It had your typical wildlife sightings; some mule deer, a  bear, and a California ground squirrel fighting off a rattlesnake who was too close to her burrow. At least I managed to photograph the bear though admittedly not very well. It wasn’t my first bear sighting in Yosemite but the first time I was able to observe one in its natural wilderness habitat. This bear was grubbing which is when a bear uses its claws to rip apart fallen trees while searching for insect larva called grubs. I was fascinated by this hunting behavior. It wasn’t quite the same experience as watching the brown bears fish for salmon at Katmai but still a thrill. Black bears in Yosemite actually are not hunters in the sense of their Alaskan counterparts. I’ve mostly observed them feeding on grasses, berries, acorns, and even pine cones. I am told they will not hunt a deer or other mammals but would likely feed on some carrion left behind by a mountain lion.

We returned to the trailhead in the early evening a little exhausted but ready for our next adventure. I remember the feeling of being overwhelmed by the magnitude of this place and never felt smaller. I didn’t know then but know now that this was the true beginning of my own Yosemite exploration. Sure, I had hike several trails in and around the Valley and Glacier Point; but it became apparent after this trip that I needed to expand my horizons. I was certain I would hike as many trails as I could see in the park requiring longer trips on far more isolated trails, and I was alright with that.

YExplore Lead Adventure Guide John P. DeGrazio has reached the summit of Half Dome more than 100 times. In this series, he will share stories from some of the most interesting journeys along the trail of Yosemite’s most popular peak. He will reflect on some of the most inspirational moments he has shared with hundreds of others while achieving their lifelong dreams. John will also share tips on how to properly prepare for such a long, arduous trek while providing insights on how to successfully complete this quest. He’ll also discuss changes to this hike he has witnessed throughout the years as well as many interesting encounters along the way.

2 Hikes with 2 Buckeyes 

by John P. DeGrazio 

We were all standing on top of Clouds Rest, and Bob leaned over to me to ask “How many miles is it again?” My answer was 17. Of course, we still had about 7 1/2 half miles remaining on our day’s hike down from the summit of Clouds Rest, but he was already looking ahead to Thursday’s hike of Half Dome.

I often get asked “What is your favorite hike in Yosemite?” My answer is always that it’s too hard to just pick one. When pressed further, I list a few trails including Half Dome and Clouds Rest. Since the Half Dome permit system has been in place, many explorers have been forced to make a choice. When Yosemite visitors can’t secure a permit to hike Half Dome, we offer several excellent alternative, and the Clouds Rest hike is always at the top of our list.

On this trip, Bob and Brian were visiting from New Albany, Ohio and wanted to maximize their Yosemite adventure potential. They ambitiously chose both the Clouds Rest and Half Dome hikes and were a bit concerned about having the stamina to do both. We were happy to schedule each hike sandwiched around a much needed rest day in September 2011. The Clouds Rest trek was an excellent challenge with an incredible reward. At nearly 10,000 feet above sea level, 9,926 to be exact, we had an expansive view of almost the entire Yosemite National Park. As an added bonus, we peered down at the summit of Half Dome from our perch.

Thursday came, and we were poised to complete the Yosemite double. We made our way up the Mist Trail, around the backside of Half Dome and over the Sub Dome. All that was between us and our stated goal was the cables. After successfully navigating this final obstacle, we found ourselves celebrating at 8,842 feet above sea level.

Bob and Brian were big football fans, and when they reached the Half Dome visor, they decided to show their support for their favorite team, The Ohio State Buckeyes. As the NCAA prepares for the first ever 4 team playoffs, The Ohio State university has been knocking on the door to the playoff equation. As my Alma Mater, Rutgers University, has recently joined the Big Ten, I am reminded of the importance of football in Big Ten country. On our way down from the summit of Half Dome, Bob admitted to me that after 2 days of extreme hiking, he was very tired. When I asked him if he ever doubted making the Half Dome summit, he answered that he was making it all the way so he could submit this photo to his alumni association.

Goal setting is critical when trying to accomplish anything worthwhile, and it’s always a good idea to set them on a summit hike to supply extra motivation when it’s needed most. Many people succeed on these endurance adventure treks because they set goals to deal with the mental aspect of such a long day. It’s very important to begin a trip like this with that type of mental preparation. This was one of  Bob’s proudest moments, and it was a success story on so many levels. It was also another example how sports can bring families together. Bob and Brian thoroughly enjoyed their days in Yosemite and have some of their favorite photos of this journey together to reflect on their achievement. If you are ever fortunate enough to make one or both of these hikes, be sure to prepare both physically and mentally. Also be sure to set goals that will help guide you through each new challenge.

YExplore Lead Adventure Guide John P. DeGrazio has reached the summit of Half Dome more than 100 times. In this series, he will share stories from some of the most interesting journeys along the trail of Yosemite’s most popular peak. He will reflect on some of the most inspirational moments he has shared with hundreds of others while achieving their lifelong dreams. John will also share tips on how to properly prepare for such a long, arduous trek while providing insights on how to successfully complete this quest. He’ll also discuss changes to this hike he has witnessed throughout the years as well as many interesting encounters along the way.

Snowy Field of Dreams 

By John P. DeGrazio 

Nothing brings a father and son together like a good game of catch. Sunny days, baseball diamonds, and the smell of leather and fresh cut grass usually conjure up memories of America’s pastime. It’s a special game and one that is passed on from generation to generation.

Half Dome was our diamond in May 2010, and the outfield was covered in snow. There was no grass, no leather, and hardly any sun; but that didn’t stop Tom and Chris from enjoying this time honored tradition at 8,842 feet above sea level. After a long arduous trek through waterfalls and snow, we made our way to the summit. We were thrilled to drink in our reward for making such a long journey and also had the opportunity for true wilderness solitude as the only hikers on the summit that day.

After lunch and a brief photo session, Tom reached into his backpack and revealed a familiar stitched spherical object that immediately caught the attention of his son Chris. It was a baseball, and it brought a smile to all of our faces. Tom asked Chris to have a catch with him, and the two men began tossing as if it were the famous scene from the movie “A Field of Dreams”. Tom asked me to capture the moment with his camera, and I happily obliged. After a short while, I was invited into the game. We shared fastballs, curves, and sliders and laughed heartily at the sting caused by each throw to our mittless hands on this raw afternoon. The unbridled joy was contagious and will never be forgotten.

On our return trip down the cables, the Yankees v. Red Sox banter that we initiated from the beginning of the trek reached a crescendo. We laughed the entire way down as if we were floating. Unfortunately, Tom misplaced his camera when he rearranged his pack at our rest spot below the Sub Dome. He hadn’t realized it was missing until one and a half miles farther down the trail. I offered to retrace our steps to retrieve the camera, but Tom refused. This was another valuable lesson learned. Besides the obvious ‘always surveying your area before leaving’, Tom taught me something so much deeper. He didn’t need photo prints of his special moment to remember its magnitude. He assured us all it was a memory forever etched in his mind and his heart. Chris and I accepted this after making one last futile attempt to persuade him to head back up the hill to find the lost treasures.

I led a group up to Half Dome a few days later and searched valiantly for Tom’s camera to no avail. I even placed a lost and found claim in Yosemite Valley and followed it up with a blog post asking for the person who hiked up to Half Dome that week (May 18-25, 2010) to keep the camera but return the images. No answer. I remain optimistic my message will be seen by someone who will realize the importance of those photos.

A few weeks had passed when I received a package and a special note from Tom thanking me for that trip. It contained two books, an Ansel Adams photo book and a pictorial history of the New York Yankees. The note explained how much pain it brought a Red Sox fan to even purchase such an epic volume of triumph, but he wanted to show his appreciation and how much that experience truly meant to him. Words cannot describe how fortunate I am to receive such gifts. Every time I see those two symbols of gratitude on my bookshelf, I think what a wonderful opportunity I took in my life to not only change who I want to be but also how I can help make positive changes in the lives of others.

To this day, I think about the catch on top of that great big snow covered ballfield, and it always brings a smile to my face. Yosemite’s Half Dome is a place where dreams come true.

YExplore Lead Adventure Guide John P. DeGrazio has reached the summit of Half Dome more than one hundred times. In this series, he will share stories from some of the most interesting journeys on Yosemite’s most popular peak. He will reflect on some of the most inspirational moments he has shared with hundreds of others while achieving their lifelong dreams. He will also share tips on how to properly prepare for such a long, arduous trek while providing insights on how to successfully complete this quest. He’ll also discuss changes he has witnessed to the overall landscape of this trail as well as many interesting encounters along the way.